DO pack some serious supplies if you want to tackle Angkor

Temple gazing is no easy business, kids. Consider the following a basic starter pack:

- Bicycle gloves: For scaling vertical steps with nothing to grab on to but boiling hot rock. Cambodian health and safety regulations don't exactly... well, exist.

- A fistful of dollars bills: For the nuns that will pop out of nowhere round every corner wanting to bless you for a donation. The only alternative is creeping away feeling like a disrespectful tightass.

- Running shoes: To make a speedy exit from the hoardes of men, women and children selling everything from coconuts to bangles that will swarm you at the entrance to every temple. For a more efficient experience substitute the above for a pogo stick. Or a foldaway scooter.

- As much water as you can physically consume: To replace the gallons of sweat you will be attractively sporting after just half an hour. This is never, I repeat NEVER, to be considered a suitable place for a date.